It was dusk when the road ended at the trail head, and I
could barely see the large canyon walls looming just beyond where we parked.
The sight was breathtaking—even against the near dark sky, and I couldn’t wait
for our hike to begin the following day. Eric’s parents were hoping to get back
through the stream crossings before darkness fully set in, so with hearty
goodbyes and “see you in a few days at the west end,” they left us standing in
the road with our packs and dinner for that evening.
The trailhead consisted of a gravel parking area, an
outhouse, a large map of the canyon, and a podium for signing in. Because there was no picnic table, we
set our dinner – fajita fixings that Eric’s mom had lovingly prepared for us—on
the podium and proceeded to stuff our mouths as quickly as possible. We were
racing the sun and didn’t have time for niceties.
This is unarguably the worst picture I think I have ever seen of myself. But in the interests of losing any sense of vanity still lingering in my delusional brain ... I decided to post it. Eric, on the other hand, looks just fine.
When finished, we began
looking for a place to pitch the tents for the night. I had my eye on a flat
grassy area near the outhouse, but this idea didn’t seem to cross the minds of my
more hearty male companions. And because I didn’t want to be the bossy female, I kept quiet as they walked toward the canyon. No matter where they looked,
however, there didn’t seem to be a suitable place to lay down for the night.
Every area was filled with weeds and large
rocks. It started to lightly rain and darkness was setting in. Finally I said
something.
“You know, there’s a really nice flat grassy spot near the
parking area…”
My more hearty companions looked at each other, shrugged,
and then started heading back to where we had eaten our dinner. We found the
grassy spot and began setting up our tents as the rainfall became stronger. Eric
and I worked feverishly to get our tent up before everything in our packs became
completely soaked. Why we didn’t put our packs in the outhouse while setting up
the tent, I’ll never know. The idea didn’t even cross our minds.
Dave, who had a one-person tent, was on his own… at least
until Eric and I could get our tent up. And although it wasn’t perfect, we did manage
it fairly quickly before throwing our packs under the rain fly. When we turned
our attentions to helping Dave, his tent was still spread out flat on the
ground. He was going from one side to the next, adjusting and then readjusting
his poles. The problem was that the elastic bands inside his poles
had long since lost their elasticity. It had been twenty years since he had
used the tent, he explained.
So I stood there, dressed in the manly rain gear I had borrowed from Dave, and asked the last question I’m sure Dave wanted to hear at that moment.
“You didn’t try putting the tent together before the trip?”
Now, to Dave’s credit, he didn’t lash out at me in any way.
He only bowed his head and said, "that would have been the smart thing to
do."
Between the three of us, we managed to jerry-rig Dave’s tent
together in the pouring rain. And just as we finished, the rain let up. Hopefully
for the night, I thought.
But that was wishful thinking.
***
To tell the truth, I was a little nervous about how I would
sleep in a tent on the ground. As much as I don’t feel like the fifty-plus years that
I am, it had been over twenty years since I had gone camping. But thanks to
this trip, I now know exactly how I will sleep in a tent on the ground: not a wink. The blowup pad that I was sleeping on wasn’t bad, but it also
wasn’t full size, and my legs were resting on the hard ground, lower than the rest of my body. So when
I slept on my back it put a painful strain on my lower back. If I turned on my
right side, my hip screamed out in pain. When I turned on my left side my
shoulder ached. I spent all night going from back to right to left, not
finding a comfortable resting spot anywhere.
Now I clearly understand why old people have RVs.
It rained consistently all night. But the sound of the
majestic thunder in the distant horizon and the melodic rain patters hitting
the tent did nothing to help me sleep. And I think Eric and Dave were having
the same problem. I heard Dave get up and walk around a number of times during
the night. He’s a diabetic and I found out later, was having blood sugar issues. Eric was shifting
around in his sleeping bag probably as much as I was due to a deflating air
mat.
Somewhere in the deep recesses of the evening it finally stopped
raining and I decided to take a walk to the outhouse. As I pulled myself out of
the tent, I looked up into the night sky and a zillion stars screamed out at me
through a break in the clouds. It was breathtaking.
“Eric are you awake? You’ve got to come out and see this!”
Eric popped his head out the tent door and looked up. “Oh
nice!” he said. We idled into silence, enjoying the view of the night sky. Then
I heard him rummaging around in his pack.
“Hey will you do me a favor?” He turned on his headlamp and
pulled out his camera. He wanted to get a picture of the stars, with me in the
forefront looking up. How he proposed to do this was for me to shine my headlamp in my face until he told me to shut it off. Then he would do some
fancy shutter work and it would be this amazing shot. We tried it several
times, but unfortunately all he was able to get was this.
To see all those stars in the heavens like that was magical. It’s
hard to believe that stars are that numerous every night and we just can’t see
them.
Unfortunately, the break in the rain was only a break. It
was like God parted the curtains for just a short span so that we could see His
magnificence, and then the curtains closed and it started to rain again. It
didn’t let up until mid morning.
But morning did come. And as I lay awake waiting for
the rain to stop, I heard the oddest thing. A car drove by. Since I thought we
were camping at the end of a remote road, this made no sense. About an hour
later, Eric stirred.
“I had a dream that my mom is worried,” he said, yawning and stretching his long
arms out of his sleeping bag.
Now, while this may seem strange coming out of a 45-year-old
man, it made perfect sense to me. We decided that it was a sign and that
proceeding with the two-day hike through the canyon after it had rained all
night would be foolish.
“But we’re stranded. Our phones have no signal. We don’t have a way
out,” Eric said,
discouraged.
I sat up and looked around. “We’re not stranded. We’ll just
backpack down the road until someone comes by and gives us a ride. It’ll work
out.”
The rain had stopped, so I pulled myself out of the tent and started putting my boots on. Just
then, a pickup truck—probably the same truck I had heard earlier—came into
view, heading towards us. I waved and it stopped. Out came a
rough-looking woman and two muddy hounds.
“You need a lift?”
I laughed and told her we sure did, but we needed to pack
up. Did she mind waiting?
Not at all, she said. She had that easy disposition that
comes from working hard on the land. The kind that’s not held to time clocks
and schedules. Rescuing stranded backpackers was all in a day’s work. She stood
there talking to us about last night’s rain as we dressed and packed up our
tents. There had been so much rain, she said, that she had to let her horses
out of the barn for fear of flooding. That’s why she had been out that way by
the trailhead. She was looking for her horses.
As she talked, her dogs were
tearing in and out of the bushes at breakneck speed, getting muddier and wetter
by the second.
It took us nearly an hour to get our things together, but it
didn’t seem to bother her at all. We hefted our packs into the back of her
truck and piled into the cab of her pickup with the dogs piling in after us. They
romped from lap to lap, muddy water flying everywhere. Our driver didn’t seem
to notice and we were so glad for the ride that all we could do was laugh.
A muddy hound uses my lap as his perch while we head away from the canyon.
And where was she taking us? Back to the great metropolis of Klondyke...